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Starting to
feed your dogs raw!
The main
guidelines for feeding your Canis Lupus Familiaris (domestic wolf) are:
1) Quantity: Feed 2-3% of ideal body
weight per day. (More for young, energetic, active dogs. Less for older,
slower dogs).
2) Proportions: Feed: 80% meat + 10%
bone (in the meat) + 5% liver + 5% other organ (kidney, skin, lung,
pancreas, brain, eyeballs, etc.)*
*you don't have to do this everyday.
This should balance out approximately over the month.
Note: heart, stomach and intestines are
fed as muscle meat.
Note: too much organ at once can cause
diarrhea. Too much bone can cause constipation.
You can add raw
fish and whole raw eggs (including shell) occasionally. No veggies,
fruits, grains or supplements of any kind are needed. (Dogs can get all
the vitamins, minerals, proteins, fats and enzymes they need from raw
meat).
3) Types of Meat: Feed whole prey as
much as possible as this is what they would eat in the wild (whole
chicken or chicken halves or chicken quarters, turkey legs or breasts,
whole rabbits, lamb shanks or shoulder, goat or pork racks (ribs),
shoulders, back, neck. beef heart, etc., according to the size and
requirements of your dog. (Only a lucky few can frequently give whole
sheep/goats/ pigs/cows/ deer, etc. to their dogs, but you can aim to
give the same amount of meat /bone / organ over the course of a month).
Try to give a variety of meats as much as possible.
4) How to feed:
Don't cut, grind or offer small pieces. Let the dog crunch and work his
jaws. The bigger the piece you can give, the better. For example, a 25
kg dog can be given a 500 gram chicken quarter (breast and wing, or leg
and thigh). There is no danger of choking on large pieces of meat, but
avoid smaller, swallow size pieces of meat, such as turkey necks that
can be swallowed whole and stick in the throat. Dogs have no trouble
crunching and digesting raw bones. Only cooked bones are dangerous.
Meat can be offered frozen, cold or at room temperature. Even meat that
has gone off (by our standards) is probably fine for your dog. (Think
about how your dog can bury meat and dig it up weeks later and eat it).
For simplicity, freeze daily portions of
meat in freezer bags. Take out of the freezer several hours ahead of
feeding time to defrost. Give to dog.
5) Converting a
dog to raw: Puppies can start on raw as soon as they are weaned, from
5-8 weeks. They can eat whole prey including bones and adapt more easily
than mature dogs. (Raw meat is better for their steady growth and avoids
sudden growth spurts caused by the carbohydrates in dry dog food, which
is why dogs brought up on raw do not suffer the joint and bone problems
of many other dogs).
Older dogs can be switched 'cold
turkey'. No need for a slow transition, but it's best to start with one
kind of meat and stick with it until the dog has gotten used to the
change. For example, start with chicken (take skin off if it causes
loose stools) and introduce a new meat after a couple of weeks. Don't
give liver or other organs until your dog is used to the new meats.
Note: avoid letting your dog decide the
menu. If your dog doesn't like what you give him, put it away until the
next meal, or the next, or the one after that. He won't starve and will
eat when he's hungry. Eventually he'll learn that you are the pack
leader, not he, and he'll eat what he's given. If you give him what he
wants every time, you'll just make a fussy dog. If they absolutely
refuse a meat, you can try lightly searing it or sprinkling some cheese
on top until they get used to it.
6) What to avoid:
Never give cooked bones - these can pierce and tear a dog's intestine.
Never give weight bearing bones (eg: cow leg bones) as these can break
teeth. (You can scoop out the marrow with a spoon and give it to your
dog). Avoid giving plain bones - always make sure it is hidden in the
meat. Wild game (eg: wild boars, venison, possibly rabbit, salmon)
should be frozen for up to 2 weeks (at -10 degrees centigrade / -20
Fahrenheit) to kill parasites. Human grade meat from slaughterhouses
should be fine, but if in doubt, freeze first.
Never give 'swallow size' pieces of
meat. Dogs do not chew their food, they can't. They crunch, break and
swallow. Give them big pieces and they will crunch and swallow the
right size with each mouthful. Avoid chicken necks and turkey necks on
their own, as these can get stuck in the oesophagus. (It's ok if they
are attached to the bird still).
Check that the meat you give is not
enhanced - no added salt (no more than 0.80mg). Try to give 'organic'
meat or meat that has not been treated with antibiotics as much as
possible, though unfortunately this is way too expensive for most
people.
7) Feeding times: In the wild, wolves
eat when they can. This may be smaller animals every day or so, or
larger animals once every four or five days. Most or our dogs have got
used to eating once or twice a day, but if a dog gets programmed to a
rigid feeding schedule, he can start to vomit bile which he will produce
in expectation of food. To avoid this do not feed according to a tight
schedule. Vary the amount of food each day and the feeding times. Some
people prefer to let their dogs self regulate or 'gorge feed'. They
allow the dog to eat as much as they can and then don't feed them again
until they are hungry, maybe two or three days later. These dogs tend to
establish an ideal weight by themselves and never eat more than they
need. Work out what works best for your dog. (Others prefer to avoid
this method as they suspect that it may lead to bloating or other
problems).
Puppies need to be fed 2-3 times a day
and pregnant and nursing bitches should be given as much as they want to
eat.
8) Things you should notice after
switching to raw: your dog will drink less water (meat is 60%+ water),
and will poop far less than before (no wasted carbohydrates) . This is
normal. Stools will vary according to diet - it won't be the same every
day. Loose stools are fairly normal and should not be confused with
diarrhea. They may change colour and consistency and occasionally
contain mucus and bits of bone. Over time you'll work out what meats
suit your dog's digestive system best.
Your dog will soon
have better energy levels, but will also sleep better after meals. His
coat should become shinier and he will get to a better weight. His
immune system will be better so less need for medical interventions. His
teeth will be cleaner and whiter and lose the tartar. He will develop
better jaw and muscle strength. He will be much happier, and for the
majority of dogs, switching to raw is like going to doggy heaven! He
will not become more aggressive or prone to attacking other animals.
This is a myth.
9) Things
to watch out for: some dogs can be allergic to some meats, but they
are less likely to be allergic on raw food diets.
Many dogs on dry dog food diets that have allergies, clear up completely
on a raw diet. However, if you see any of the following signs it may be
worth changing meats to try and rule out possible allergens: constant
vomiting or diarrhoea, unwillingness to eat, lethargy, excessive blood
in vomit or stools. If in doubt - see a vet.
10) Cost: if you shop around it's
usually possible to buy good meat for less or same price as you've been
spending on dried dog food (kibble). Supermarkets sometimes have deals
on certain meats, frozen meats, etc. but try to make sure they are not
enhanced with salt or additives. If you visit slaughterhouses or
butchers and ask they may be able to give you free stuff, but don't just
rely on bags of fat and unwanted bones. Get organs and body parts that
are not normally used.
Some people prefer to rear their own
meat (rabbits, chicken, etc.) for their dogs, while others are lucky
enough to find road kill or hunt their own.
Good
luck and have fun!
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